Spanish Synagogue

Moorish revival interior, every surface gilded and patterned

Area Josefov
Type Church
Time needed 45m

The Spanish Synagogue was built in 1868 on the site of the oldest synagogue in the Prague Jewish quarter, and the inside is Moorish revival: every wall, arch and ceiling surface is covered in gilded and painted geometric pattern. There is no Spanish connection beyond the style, which was borrowed from Granada. It is the most immediately spectacular interior in Josefov and it is part of the Jewish Museum.

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Getting there

Metro line A (green) to Staroměstská, then about seven minutes on foot east through Josefov along Široká and Vězeňská. From the Old Town Square walk north past the Church of St James and across Dušní; it takes eight to ten minutes. Trams 17 and 2 run to Právnická fakulta on the embankment, five minutes away. All flat, with a short flight of steps at the door.

What you see

The main hall hits you at once: a square space under a dome, arcaded galleries on three sides, and stencilled and gilded ornament running over everything, including the organ case above the ark. Take a minute to work out that the pattern is painted rather than tiled. The permanent exhibition in the hall and the galleries covers the history of Bohemian and Moravian Jews from emancipation in the nineteenth century into the twentieth, with documents, photographs and objects from congregations that no longer exist; the upper gallery is where the better displays are, and it also gives you the dome at eye level. The adjoining building holds a collection of synagogue silver, ritual textiles and Torah ornaments, much of it gathered from provincial communities during the occupation. Outside, on the corner towards Dušní, there is a modern bronze of a figure riding on an empty suit, a monument to Franz Kafka.

What to pair it with

The Old Jewish Cemetery, the Pinkas Synagogue and the Old New Synagogue are all within five minutes and are the natural companions. The Old Town Square and the Municipal House are each about ten minutes away.

When to go

Early in the day, for the same reason as the rest of Josefov: the galleries are narrow and fill quickly. Both this synagogue and the other museum sites close on Saturdays and on Jewish holidays, and winter hours are shorter, so check the day before you plan the quarter. The interior is artificially lit, so weather does not matter much, but concerts are held here in the evenings in season and the hall lit for a concert is a better sight than the hall in daylight.

What is hard about it

It is sold as part of the Jewish Museum circuit rather than on its own in most cases, so you are effectively buying the whole quarter; the Old New Synagogue is handled separately from that circuit. The visit is short, and the museum displays are text-heavy, which not everyone wants after the first ten minutes of looking at the ceiling. In season the galleries are shoulder to shoulder. Photography rules vary by site within the museum, so check at the entrance. There are stairs to the galleries and no lift.

Common questions

How long do you need at the Spanish Synagogue?

Forty-five minutes covers the hall, the gallery exhibition and the silver collection next door.

Is it open on Saturdays?

No. It closes on Saturdays and on Jewish holidays, as do the other Jewish Museum sites.

Is it worth it if we have already seen the other synagogues?

Yes, because the interior is nothing like the others. If you only see one, this is the one that looks the way people imagine.